On Top of a Volcano & Under the Sea Sarah Wednesday, April 30, 2014

I never knew I would achieve so many firsts here in Indonesia. Sometimes it's awesome to have no expectations going somewhere new as whatever happens will be a noteworthy and learning full experience regardless. It's very ironic to me because initially, Indonesia wasn't even planned on my itinerary in the beginning, but due to some change of plans in between and having to swap out a country for later, I can say that Indonesia was meant to be all along.

 After Ubud and moving accommodations five days straight later, I settled in Sanur. A quieter beach area than Kuta on the other side of Bali (ultra touristy and heard it's quite distasteful as it's a lot of bars, partying, tattoo parlous and you get the point). Sanur is much more tranquil and quiet, and pretty clean too from my observation (joked as the retiree beach). As it is a low season of travelling due to the extremely high temperatures, I love the feeling of having a place all to myself. I felt ultra stereotypical when I spent 4+ hours on a beach chair just reflecting, dreaming, and even sun tanning. I never do this last one on the list, so it was bizarre and a first, but also a first gone intriguingly wrong-I got my first sunburn ever! Yes in 22.75 years of living, I've never been sunburned before. Perhaps I just tan when I'm in the sun for long, or my regular habit of sunscreen works fabulously, but the rays must be super strong here that it was able to tan and burn me in addition to the fact that I didn't reapply sunscreen thinking that I would be okay as always. I didn't even know I got sun burnt until I was on the way back home as I realized my left thigh was itching. Then I looked down and I was lobster red! It took a moment to click in that I was actually sun burnt and that my skin had a warm and heated sensation upon touch. It was strange, but cool at the same time haha. When I finally got to look at myself in a mirror, I realize my whole upper left arm was burnt as well as my nose, AND I have the worse tan lines and mixes of brown ever. How in the world did this happen? I don't even recognize myself now.

 Another first and one that I had planned was learning to scuba dive. Since learning the basics of swimming leading up to this trip, I couldn't have been more excited and in full anticipation for it. The night before I was getting anxious and reassuring myself that everything will be okay. I thought I was crazy that I went from a would be drowner a few months ago to straight into scuba diving; I hadn't even tried snorkeling or an easier water activity to work up to this! Thankful for prayers, I met a girl and new friend who was in the same boat as me! And not only that, she just graduated in fashion related studies and was traveling SEA on her own like me (wow I think I've lost count of divine appointments by now)! I'm also so glad I had such a patient, kind, and funny instructor because I am not going to lie, I was a slow learner, a mess and a frightful being at first (even if I didn't show it).

My fabulous instructor & divinely appointed friend!

I signed up with Bali Diving (very organize, accommodating in arrangements and awesome!) and this was inclusive of two dives, lunch, and transportation to and from the dive site. I was suggested Tulamben, a small fishing village famous for diving due to a US Army Transport ship that was torpedoed and sunk by the Japanese submarine back in WWII.  You can't make out the ship anymore as it's now deteriorated and much plants and coral has grown over the remnants, but as a first time diver, the whole experience was surreal and made me in awe with my eyes since I was literally and figuratively speechless at the sight of swimming with fishes, learning the danger of fire coral, and doing something I thought would only be a dream for so long.

So onto the hardships of diving, my first half of my dive was terrible. It's so much easier to practice on land than in water due to the pressure, buoyancy factor, and fear you are caught up in once something goes wrong. The hardest part for my body to get use to was,

1. I am not drowning even if I don't move as I have an inflatable vest on (thus you don't need to know how to swim at all though it is very beneficial)

2. I am able to breathe in and out of my mouth while my nose is being plugged, and no I will not suffocate just because I feel water is in my mask (the mask covers and in a way plugs your nose from breathing because you should only be breathing out to get rid of water-never in)

3. I am able to relax, concentrate on what I need to be doing, and not rush to remember every hand signal or make sure to check everything on me is okay (or else you panic like I did).

4. I can breathe in and out and hold my breathe in between to swallow and 'equalize' the pressure (ear pops like on an airplane), and I won't die!

Out of the first dive, I came up 4 times with the last putting me on a "break" because I panicked when water was in my nose and I started swallowing and choking on too much salt water, then I couldn't understand and properly 'equalize' the pressure in my ear so it hurt immensely, then my mask was giving me problems and water kept going up my nose every time I tried blowing out, then the fourth I  don't even remember what went wrong. So for the ease of watching one of us at a time for safety measures (my new friend had got told off my two divers because she almost stepped on fire coral), I was put on a break. I really felt the desire to quit come up as I was very frustrated with myself, but I knew I wasn't letting that happen so while waiting on the coast I practiced breathing mouth only, equalizing pressure, all the while asking God for His strength and to help me be able to make this happen and see the beauty underwater.

When it was my turn to dive again, this time, miraculously of course, I was able to do everything slowly, but properly! I was diving! I was actually scuba diving! It was utterly amazing and everything I thought it would be. Once you get everything, then you do enjoy and embrace it so much more. My second dive together with my new friend was even better. We both had got the hang of it and towards the end, our instructor even let us freely swim on our own without holding us from the back like the first time. Wow I can finally say now that I've been on top of a volcano, and under the sea! woooot!

Lastly, I got the opportunity to ride on the back of a motorcycle. I thought this would eventually happen as taxis here are either cars or motorbikes, but I never had the guts to get taxied by the latter. With a last minute decision to head to the Panur Sindu Night Market farther along Sanur beach from where I'm staying, my lovely homestay family (the mom and toddler) took me there on the back of her motorbike! Weeeee! For some reason I always thought it would be easy to tip over or stay on, but it was such a smooth and fun ride and I can't wait to do it again! Also, the night market is small, but there's lots of local delights you can try for less than $1 and also some stalls selling local and knock off goods (I don't recommend spending on that stuff though, shopping is so much better in Ubud).

OOO-BOOD Sarah Monday, April 28, 2014

After an hour long ferry ride, three hour humid shuttle bus, and finally an air conditioned taxi ride, I couldn't have been happier to settle in Ubud (pronounced like the title of this post and not oo-bud as I originally thought). Ubud is the hub of Balinese culture as it's the central hotspot for tourists-with the influx of travelers

steady especially after Eat Pray Love was filmed. I stayed at a private room bungalow for a night and the line up view of fresh and green rice paddies outside my bedroom was glorious to wake up to. Ubud literally has hundreds of accomodation options for you to choose from. For a cheap rate, you can get a nice room with breakfast commonly known as "homestay" though it's basically just a bungalow or home locals rent out with separate doors and bathrooms for each room (mine even had a basic stove setup).

This sounds crazy, but the sight of toilet paper and a legit toilet brought joy to my bathroom duties (wasn't kidding when I said previous facilities on that tour was terrible). Another common thing Ubud and in general Bali is known for are spas. There are people handing out pamphlets all along Monkey Forest Road and the surrounding area. You really have to compare prices though as one place can vary drastically from the next and I wouldn't pay more than 150000 rupiah (~$13) for a massage when you can spot rates as low as 55000 rupiah. Of course service level and facilities may differ too, but at the ceiling rate, you already are getting so much more than what a massage would cost back in North America. Upon arrival I got a Balinese style massage shortly after settling it. I really just needed to pamper myself and feel relieved from tension from the horrific commute the past few days. I felt so relaxed the whole time and I even got to shower right after to wash off the oil (for your reference I went to Ubud Wellness Spa and paid what I suggested as tops).

Picking bugs and eating them off each other

A mom nursing her young!

I started today at The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary and it brought forth an unexpectedness of immense joy! Besides being a tourist attraction, it's first and foremost a natural habitat for the long tail macaques and they have over 500 of them currently. I had read up on them being quite mischievous beings as they aren't afraid of humans and will even jump on you if they spot you with food or plastic of any sort. I was just holding my water bottle upon entering when this monkey jumped on my stomach to try to grab it. I had an initial freak out, but afterwards I came to adore these little monkeys. They ARE so human-like from observation, from catching a mom nurse her little one to seeing them pick bugs off each other, cuddle and fight, they are so adorable. So despite my precautions of putting my water bottle away, one monkey kept following and grabbing onto me because he/she thought the tassel on my bag resembled a banana-it was hilarious to bystanders but quite humorously annoying to me. You would think I had enough of the monkeys by the end of it, but I decided to buy some bananas to feed them, and I got even more attacked. One monkey jumped on my head and started pulling at my hair and yet another one slapped my leg when I tried to snatch the banana back!! They are such rebellious creatures! If you don't have a phobia of monkeys, definitely come here for some entertainment, but just try not to be a target yourself haha.

Afterwards I went to the Ubud Palace which wasn't so exciting so I just snapped some photos and went on my way. However, I lingered way too long at the Ubud Market. I'm a sucker for local and hand crafted ethnic good so I spent more than expected for souvenirs and clothing for myself. If I didn't have luggage and budget restraints, I probably would've went even crazier. What I learnt is to always bargain and be firm on what price you want as they jack prices up expecting tourists to bargain. Also, never ask for the price of an item unless you intend to buy it, the seller will keep pestering you if you walk away and some would try continually persuading me to buy it saying it's "badluck" if I didn't purchase from them. I also really like checking out Ubud's scene of boutiques in the area. It's too high for my budget, but I love window shopping and asking questions about locally designed products and asking to take photos of unique designs, displays and interiors. One shop that stood out to me was far from Balinese and when I asked the employee, she said the owner is French; I wasn't surprise as the aesthetic was so different.

So onto Balinese food. It's so good! I've been sick of Nasi Goreng and other stereotypical Indo dishes so I ventured into restaurants to try some authentic dishes and it didn't disappoint. I had 'soto medan' my first night and it's basically a coconut curry based soup with sliced chicken, vermicilli, and other vegetables. It was light, but flavourful and I can't wait to have it again. Another dish I had was at Ibu Rai, a popular restaurant named after a women who owned a famous warung (food stall) at one point on Monkey Forest Road (just pass the football field going up and recommended to me by a boutique employee). The exterior and interior of this place is gorgeous and adorned with bright colour and rustic furniture. Initially I wanted to try this 'crispy duck' dish I kept seeing on menus, but as I was  having an early lunch it wasn't ready yet as it takes quite some time to prepare this duck. Instead, the waitress recommended me this fish dish called 'Ikan Bakar Bumbu Bali' and I loved it! I didn't even know what it would be like at first, but I took my time savoring it as I am normally a fast eater. The fish was perfectly marinated and so soft and tender (if those words can be used to describe fish) and the turmeric flavoured rice, peanut chip, and well seasoned bean sprouts and veggies paired delectably on my palate.

 Last but not least, I got to have the duck before I left Ubud. When I finally received my order and took my first bite,  I realized why it takes up to half a day to prepare. It's so the duck is roasted so that it's literally crispy outside and inside so even the fine bones are crunchy and can be bitten and eaten as well. It was like fried chicken but duck and unforgettable. Maybe I got accustomed to hawker food stalls and food being next to instant as it would usually be half prepared prior to ordering, but I really appreciate Balinese food being made to order as it's really reflected in the taste and quality of the food. The cost of eating is higher compared to other SEA places as Bali is very touristy, but the environment and service is so much better too!