Jiao Hanoi!

I already know in full anticipation that one day I want to return and eat-see-do-venture through southern Vietnam. Too bad I didn't have enough time this time around, but when is there ever enough time? The more you travel, the more people and discoveries you make and there's just so much to explore through each country. Plus, it just gives you another reason to return in the future.

Northern Vietnam has educated me that there's more than just pho on menus and that motorcycle bike rides are dangerously fun even though being in the shoes of a pedestrian is life or death (I have master the art of crossing the street though!). I'm accustom to the Vietnamese language in Hanoi as it is much more soft spoken than that of Vietnamese back home (which I was informed those are Southern Vietnamese people who are loud and sounds like they are "arguing"). Most of all, having Vietnamese friends really helps you to be inform on the best of the best in terms of locality and hidden gems!

My local friend whom I met on exchange is a food enthusiasts, so when I first told her I wanted to join one of those motorbike food tours that are common here, she abruptly said I was with the best candidate ever. Turns out, this whole trip with her has felt like a scrumptious and perhaps slightly gluttonous time besides on the Sapa and Halong Bay tours.


Our last full day together, she took me to Nha Hang Ngon Restaurant (ngon means delicious in Viet) and there's also a location in Saigon as well as in Phnom Peng, Cambodia. Walking in it, I realize this was one of the fanciest places my has taken me seeing that we've literally been eating on the streets in Hanoi so often. The decor, open air atmosphere and also indoor air condition spots if you prefer made it somewhat feel like a grand and exquisite atmosphere. The concept of the food here is pretty neat as well, it's a mix of food court/hawker stall and restaurant ordering style where you can go straight up from the menu or visit any of the open kitchens to see what you like (for me, what looked the tastiest!) and order there. It felt very interactive as there's about 6-8 different mini kitchens that are designated to cook specific types of Vietnamese dishes. I finally got to try banh xeo (a thin and crispy pancake filled with bean sprouts, pork, shrimp and onions) and it is THE BEST THING I'VE EVER EATEN. I actually wasn't to excited for it initially because my grandma knows how to make this, but it's quite oily and unhealthy. Though eating it in its homemake country is such a delight to my senses and so much crispier, lighter and bigger than what my grandma can wok out. My friend said this restaurant wasn't even the best place to have it either as eateries that make it 'thy best' would sell only one specific item on the menu and not offer such a diverse selection on their menus like here.

On another note, I've never drank more Vietnamese coffee in my life, and coffee in general, but I'm having cups daily here, even multiple shots. One person even said coffee here is better than coffee from Brazil, one of the largest productions of coffee beans in the world. It only made sense that the innovative idea of mixing egg and coffee would arise, commonly referred to as "egg coffee" to the locals and intrigued tourists. When my friend first told me, I thought it sounded disgusting like a raw egg mixed with caffeine, but its nothing like that at all. Its more like whipped egg white mixed with sugar so it resembles a creamy foam over a shot of Vietnamese coffee. I cant even rave enough about how good it was, its almost like warm gelato in the mouth! We also tried other versions like egg coffee and beer/rum but it was gross and not a good mix at all, so please don't try that! Also on the topic of drinks, load up on the abundance of fresh fruit smoothies, iced teas and exotic fruit in general all over Vietnam to quench your thirst as fruit here are super sweet, cheap, and helps to refresh your electrolytes when you are sweating buckets.


This display is made from traditional Vietnamese hats
Next on our eventful itinerary was the Vietnamese Women's Museum. It's rare that I haven't visited as much museums as I usually do as I like being educated in the history of the place I'm visiting, but I knew I had to come here as having a museum focus just on women spurred my interest upon reading recommendations about this place. Basically it revolves around the history and settlement of Vietnamese women as well as their traditional religious beliefs, marriage, hard working lifestyle, and finally their fashion and what modernity means for them in today's day. I really appreciate and enjoy learning about the work ethics of Vietnamese women and especially all the sacrifices they've made during the Vietnam war. There is such a sense of empowerment, unity and strength when women come together and it inspires and propels me to never be stagnant whereever I am in life.

So the most spontaneous and one of the best thing I've done on this whole SEA trip was getting new glasses. I had not planned for this at all, but because I noticed one of the "nose tabs"(don't know its technical name) fell off from my glasses, I thought getting it fixed in Hanoi would be cheap and easy. However, they didn't have the tabs my glasses have, so I couldn't say no to $25 glasses. Yes, you read that right! For the price of one pair in Canada, I can get like ten pairs of lens AND frames here. Of course I'm not sure how different the quality is, and the frames are unbranded (though mine aren't either, but if you honestly think about glasses, they are one of the most jacked up items in North America because you are literally buy two pieces of glass and plastic frames typically made in Asia anyways, but mine does have"Swarovski" printed on the inside-don't know how true that is. Anyhow, thirty minutes later, I was a happy four eyes and the frames and lens turned out really well. In Hanoi, it's common to have each street selling only one category of consumer goods, so there's a whole street of glasses frame shops in the Old Quarter area, but the most popular (and this was obvious with the amount of people surrounding her booth) is called Thanh Luan. The owner is a friendly and smiley lady who isn't bothered even if you don't decide to buy after trying on multiple styles (she definitely knows how to provide the right service and does her business right!). My friend told me they have the best prices on the block and you can definitely bargain as well.

Of course I had to get my nails done, it's what Vietnamese people are known for back in Canada! For $10, I got a manicure with nail polish and nail art done. I don't normally wear nail polish travelling, but seeing that this is the last leg of my SEA journey, I might as well pamper myself before returning to Korea for a while.  There are spas everywhere just as with Bali and Cambodia, but do shop around to compare prices and be willing to pay more for better treatments ands spa atmospheres.

Vietnam has truly fascinated me. Not only that, but the people have been fascinated with me as well. I joked I never felt so attractive and questioned before as I am use to being asked about my ethnicity and all, but being in Vietnam is a different world. Almost everyone I've met or looks at me thinks I look Vietnamese, but they are confused when I don't speak Vietnamese when they talk to me. Then they are lost when I say I'm Chinese but born in Canada. Random people on the bus or stores would try to talk to talk me because they are so curious I speak English and they even mistaken my friend as a foreigner because she's with me! One really sweet girl even said I must have Vietnamese blood somewhere in my family tree because my eyes looked so "Vietnamese". While on the tour, I was the joke of the day as my last name is 'Pho' and I always had to explain the story behind my fake last name (if you don't know, I love to tell you!). By the end of this viet-venture, I've learned some Viet words, so next time I will just say I am Vietnamese. Lets see what happens then!

Jiao Hanoi!

Hello Hanoi

I find it quite interesting how I started the Indonesia leg of my trip being thought of as Japanese and being shouted "Konichuwa" at, and by the end of it, this security guard at the airport was speaking to me in Pasar (Indonesia's language) in which I responded with a confused "What?" and he asked, "Aren't you Indonesian?' and I shook my head. Perhaps that tells gives you a snippet of just how dark I got during the past week!

However, now in Hanoi, I asked my friend how people can tell I'm not a local and she responded with, "You're too pale".

What?!? It just comes to show how much one can depict by your skin colour and respectively, the standard of beauty judging by your complexion.

Anyways, onto Hanoi. Hanoi is very different from any other city I've been to so far. It's much cooler than it's usual climate right now which is a bonus pleasure for me transitioning from the bright rays and intense heat of Bali. The city is not as developed as I thought it be (I hear South Vietnam is more advanced), but the buildings, transport system and conditions overall are better than that of its neighboring country Cambodia, specifically in Siem Reap where I was. Though compared to the overall environment of Siem Reap's touristy and livelier areas, Hanoi is very dusty here on the streets and the air is filled with a gloomy mist of gray wherever you go. Perhaps pollution or a lack of city cleanup or maybe both? I miss the sight of vibrant greens, tropical trees and plants, as well as bright colours commonly sighted all across Bali already.

One of the many themed coffee shops, this one military inspred
Today my friend and I headed to the Hanoi's Old Quarter, the central/touristy/"downtown" of the city. We wandered around a bit shopping around for a decent tour (unlike my quick-one-pick Indonesian experience) for my plan to go to Sapa and Halong Bay. There are tons of travel agencies in this area so asking questions, comparing pamphlets and offers is necessary. We went to a few before I spontaneously sighted and settled on Classy Travel. It was a promotional board in the front of the store that caught my eye and initially I thought it was probably there just to lure me in, but their customer service, packages, and detailed oriented information sold the it to me. It was more than I had plan to pay ($300 US in total  for 3N/2D to Sapa ($135) and 2N/3D Halong Bay ($165) after), but learning from experience, I don't want to opt for the cheapest only to endure through terrible grief again. So more on this in my future posts.

Along the way, I've met many travelers who told me Vietnam was their favorite country and one of such reasons is because of the food. Food, glorious food, how can you say no to $1.5 Pho bowls, $2 noodle dishes, and $0.5 dessert cups? It may not come from the nicest store fronts (and might I even add quite dirty/hole in the wall/rundown places), but they do offer the best eats (and cheapest next to Malaysia)! I went to a dessert place today that my friend brought me to which has been family run since 1893! That's remarkable and tells of just how good what they offer is if it's been in existence for so long.

One thing I didn't expect to be so money-hungry was shopping! If you know me you know how much I can't say no to shopping overseas (as I never know when I will return). I realized clothes sold in some boutiques on the streets actually have legit labels from Zara, Forever 21, Mango and the like as much of these clothes are manufactured in Vietnam. I questioned the authenticity of it obviously as Asia is known for knock offs, but then I realize they are one-off samples that may have been produced slightly wrong, inaccurately sewn to design, or perhaps missing a stitch/losing some thread, hence flawed products that local business owners get their hands on to sell to the local/tourist market as they can't be sold from the original company.Well I definitely didn't mind because I scored branded items at such a great discount-it felt like vintage shopping as I scoured for one of a kind gems! Shopping is the only thing that really kills my budget plans... by a lot!
amazing handicraft sold at Old Quarter
What else, I think I've become quite stomach tough by now eating food from street stalls and all, but I think Hanoi tops it off as the worst for food safety and sanitary measures in terms of food being sold and prepared on the street. I couldn't believe meat cuts are just laid out on a giant cutting board for customers to touch and select at-no display case, no screen, no temperature regulator; ingredients are pre-chopped in bowls and just waiting to be cooked upon order in the warm outdoors (bacteria alert!). If this was in Canada, nothing would be allowed to be opened. You really take for granted so many standards, rules, policies and regulations back home when travelling SEA, but at the same time, you realize that to the locals, it's not that they don't care, but they just don't have the means or resources to have these measures. Also, it just comes to show that a little street food won't hurt anybody as I know it can cause some over-paranoia.
Interesting how bread is packaged so well
but meat on the other hand...
I've also been learning to take it easy and slow it down as a traveler. When I started in KUL, I made sure to do, eat, see everything on my list and pack in as much as I can in the time that I had. Having learned from experience, I am taking things at a slower pace and embracing every experience big or small rather then to rush it and move on to the next.

Here's to Hanoi and the rest of my itinerary-planned or not!