Khmer reflection

My heart is really sad. It was only three days, but I didn't want to leave Cambodia. As I'm sitting in the airport writing this, I wish I could do more. I'm excited for the rest of my itinerary, but everything that I've learned, people that I've met, and experiences I've had has become precious memories already. I will cherish them until I return. Three days was definitely not enough as there was also other things I wanted to do, but didn't get to.

Initially I thought Cambodia would bring forth certain saftey issues, but I felt so much more relaxed than in Kuala Lumpur. As I became more enriched and educated in the history and culture of the Khmers, I became aware that they may even be more afraid of foreigners then the other way around. I felt like these past three days has been a history class as I've heard of the Khmer Rouge, but never knew the details of this massive massacre, neither did I really know how corrupted the government is here or how poor this country is. Maybe these are the reasons that leaves Siem Reap lingering in my heart,; I've become emotionally attached with a desire to want to do more. I can also see why Cambodia has so many startup NGOS and organizations that give back to the community. What they've had way back in the glory days has now all been lost. The country is so young-literally (60% of the population are under 25) and all the intelligent Khmers have been killed off from the Khmer Rouge. Even the most popular tourist income, Angkor Wat and temples are operated by the Vietnam government.


I had the opportunity to talk to an entrepreneur investing in Cambodia and through observation, I would say 1/4 of the businesses in the tourist area are probably owned by foreigners, thus the money goes back to them rather than to the locals. Of course with foreign businesses they do hire local Khmer and it helps, but most of the profits are obviously pocketed by whoever started the business. It also seems easy to startup a business as the Cambodian government will allow anything that will bring income to the area, though also very unfortunate as the government has made many wrong decisions in letting countries come and just take hold of what they initially own for years to come. The future is definitely in this young generation of Khmers and I pray and hope they can be educated, because in the words of Ron Carter from New Hope,

"Education is the only way to bring upon change."

God Bless Cambodia. 

Happy Khmer New Year

From April 14-16 it is the Khmer New Year (KNY) so I couldn't have picked a better time to come not only to travel, but also to celebrate. When my friend and I were exploring the temples, we also sighted people setting up chairs, tents, stages, and much decor and festivities for the upcoming new year event. We were also told the streets were more decorated than usual as well. Like Chinese New Year, it's a huge deal and Cambodians share these New Year dates with bordering Thailand (Songkran) and Vietnam as one of the major holidays of the year. This may also be the only week or two of holidays the Khmers receive in a whole year.

Initially I had wanted to do a half day tour to the Kampong Phluk Floating Village, but the downside to coming new year is that most companies offering tours were closed for the three days of KNY. So it didn't work out, but the day went better than I had originally planned anyways. 

Somehow in divine ways, a group of five of us from the hostel had decided to check out some festivities that were going on not too far. We were the fantastic travelling five consisting of a Canadian (myself), a Pakistanian working and based in Thailand at the moment, an American who moved to work in Singapore, a Philippian whom was on holiday, and a German who was on a gap year. We joked we represented the world and we tuktuk-ed to the nearby area to see if we could join in the Khmer fun. Siem Reap is the first and maybe one of the few countries you will find travellers starting their day early due to the popular early temple tours, but even then I think us being ready to go at 10am was quite impressive. However, as local Khmers don't come out until later as you've been enriched by me to know, we were way too early for any excitement. However, the fantastic five of us had amazing map readers whom lead us to a temple as some of us had heard there may be some kind of New Year ceremony we could watch.
We navigated ourselves to a traditional Buddhist temple where a lineup of monks were sitting and eating their meals. Some locals had been preparing the food and were also there to give thanks as it was New Years. Imagine the sight of five foreigners walking into such a local place, all eyes turned though nothing was said as they just observed. When the monks finished their meal, two of them kindly approached us while the locals kept giving us food to eat. I didn't touched anything as personally I didn't want to eat food that may have been worshipped as I'm a Christian, but my group mates enjoyed the abundance of food laid out upon us. The two monks were also very kind to engage in conversation with us, educate us on the history and background of Khmer, tell us about their decision and lifestyle as a monk, as well as took photos with us! I really felt naive and dumbfounded as many things they told us about being a monk was quite a shocker to me, such as how they are allowed to be on Facebook and I'm even Facebook friends with one of them now (I find this hilarious). One of them even had a nicer phone than I did-I guess they need to be "in" with the times like they've mentioned. 

This use to be a brothel, now a shelter
In the afternoon, I had arranged a tour by Ron Carter, the Public Relations Officer of New Hope Organization. Why I had planned this visit so far in advance to this NGO was because initially I had wanted to do some volunteering while travelling, but due to my itinerary I wasn't able to commit. Secondly, I heard about New Hope while researching about my travels and had stumbled upon it through GAdventures (who is a sponsor of their restaurant program). Last but the best reason of all, I had watch the Nefarious documentary about sex trafficking (with one of the focus being child prostitution in Cambodia) last year and that left an ingrained sadness in me to learn and know more (you can read about more about my thoughts here).
Village of Mondul 3

 Basically New Hope was started by a local Khmer 6 years ago to provide education for kids living in poverish villages. It started out from a burdening heart as many kids in Cambodia aren't able to afford schooling, and rather, even have to work to earn money for their families, and the founder was one of these kids himself when he was younger. From a humble beginning of teaching kids from home, he has expanded it to an abandoned brothel to shelter moms and their kids from abusive husbands, and now renting a property with their own building inclusive of a health clinic, classrooms, office, restaurant (recommended on trip advisor!) and soon to be boutique selling the textile goods they make on site (there as a sewing room-imagine how giddy  I was). They now school 1200 kids from local villages with a growing waiting list. They've also have had over 600 volunteers walk through their doors, fundraising, and making a big difference with what skills they have. Hearing the founder's biography was touching and being educated on the unfortunate incidents that led Cambodia to this state left my heart breaking. It's so true you don't completely grasp the concept of poverty until you see it. Though you may think what's portrayed on TV commercials are a guilt trip of exaggeration, it's beyond true. Yet, the most amazing part is that when we went to the villages the people were so kind and happy. They have only each other, but the kids would run up to us wanting to play, the families would greet us and share their joy just as they are. 
I knew from the start Cambodia was a special place on my itinerary, but now it has become a special place in my heart and I know I want to return some day to give back and volunteer. The fantastic five not only bonded in a days time of sharing, learning, eating, and exploring, but our hearts left burning for justice and desiring for more change to come as our friendship bloomed.
a kindergarten classroom

the sewing room
If you are interested in volunteering, I highly recommend New Hope. They are doing everything right as an NGO (where many others have failed), and the money you fundraise or give to them as a requirement to volunteer all goes to the local Khmer wages whom have had lives transformed through these jobs.

As for New Year events, we didn't get to partake in much, but most people said the highlight is always outside of Angkor Wat (you don't need a temple pass as it is after closing hours), however, like any New Year, traffic is horrendous so go early to avoid traffic jams.

Cambodia does live up to its name as the Land of Smiles.

Temple Wat?

My day with a roomie started at 5am as we had arranged a sunrise short circuit tour of the profound temples. I thought getting up would've been terrible, but it actually wasn't as bad due to all the excitment and hype of seeing the sunrise from Angkor Wat, the most popular and main temple of them all. Also, as hot as it is, it's still cooler early morning so it was nice to enjoy the view before the sun had risen to its highest point and radiate its heat on us.
The mob of people

I can't recall the last time I've seen a sunrise, but I knew this was a must on my to do list as every Siem Reap blog I've read talked about watching a sunrise, sunset or perhaps even both. A temple pass is $20 for one day, $40 for 3, or $60 for any 7 days in a 30 day period, so if I had more time I probably would've explored and made more out of the temple experience. With my timeframe, I figured getting a one day pass was sufficient and if I really wanted to come back a second day, it be the same price as a 3 day pass anyways.

The short circuit route started at Angkor Wat (the one you see in every advertisment possible), but you can choose to do the temples in which ever order you like. In fact, it is recommended to do them from the farthest to the closest temples as you avoid the crazy crowds and tour groups starting at Angkor Wat in the morning. You can either get a bike or rent a tuktuk for a day which is set at $15 for a short circuit tour (around 5-6 hours depending how long you take), which is what my roomie and I did and highly recommend. The temples are quite spaced out apart and because of the heat and all the climbing you are doing, tuktuk-ing would be the most comfortable and convenient. Trust me, we were so burned out by the end of that I don't think you would want to bike the route, but being tired gave us a fabulous excuse to get another $6 massage. :)

After crossing off sunrise on our bucket list, we explored Angkor Wat and took a bajillion photos. The design of this place is just WOW. The detailed carvings on the wall, the pefectly aligned columns, the steep staircases, the profound artchitect of the roofs and peaks all really made you question how in the world did they come up with this? Was this all they did in the past eras? It was just marvelous and crazy at the same time.

Bayon
Next we went to the Bayon, also known as the four face temple. This was much smaller compared to Angkor Wat, but it's main features was that the temple  had four humungous carvd faces, one in each direction. Leading to it there was also a gateway of stone 'guardians' with various angry faces which was quite humourous.

Angkor Thom is probably my favorite of them all. If the entire place was made from stainless steel instead of stone, I think this would've made an awesome setting for a futuristic movie. It had many rectangular formations rising from the base and there was just so much detail to look at overall. As a whole it was mezmerizing, but in parts, it was picture worth. You got to see it to believe it! I think what was most enjoyable here was stalking couples with personal tour guides and listening in on how to take some illusion-esque photos. My roomie and I had a fabulous time and some people from tour groups watching us snap witty photos did the same as well!
Angkor Thom
The Palace
In between there was a few smaller temples and even a palace that seemed pittyful as it looked too small to house a royal famiy from the past, but it was still neat to see. Last but not least though, and the most touristy attraction of them all was Ta Prohm, where the first Tomb Raider was filmed!!! You know a spot is famous when you see people crowding and fighting to take a photo where Lara Croft (Angelina Jolie) had a scene in-and I was one of these fans haha. The distinct part of this temple is that over the years trees have grown over the temple and the main one on the top of the temple resembled a ginseng root to me. Speaking of which, all the trees in the temple area are really nice to look at as they are so ancient with giant trunks, yet living and thriving all over the place (felt like the Forbidden Forest from Harry Potter).
Ta Prohm

A Lara Croft scene, hence the tourists
That night after some rest from the long day, I went with a new friend to the Angkor Night Market which happens every evening. It never occurred to me until now that everyone I've been sighting have been mainly foreigners, and the only locals were tuk tuk drivers or store owners. That evening, it occured to me that I've never seen so many local Cambodians around the area. I always  thought it was because I was in a tourist hotspot, but that night I had a light bulb moment that the majority don't come out until the sun had set and it made so much sense to me. They must think us tourists are crazy for bearing the heat and walking around sweating buckets. I mean why put yourself through that when the city is alive at night until the wee hours of the morning where the heat has died down? It was so interesting to see the streets flood with drinks and food cart stalls, families, teenagers, couples, and basically a lower ratio of tourists around. Also, because it was the Khmer New Year the next three days, there was lots of events and festive items being sold, so this made for an extra special experience.
Tip: Don't be afraid to bargain! I think Siem Reap is one of the easiest cities to as they know English and will eventually give it to you for a lower price; the more you buy from one place, the more discount you can get as well!
The Siem Reap River

Like a Khmer Princess

Two posts in one day because that's how amazing Siem Reap is.


So when I booked a reservation for the Aspara dance and dinner show, I expected just a simple dinner served at tables surrounding a stage, thus I was quite jaw dropped to see where my tuk tuk had dropped me off for my reservation. It literally is pamper heaven here. I had stepped into an ethnic built restaurant known as Koulen Restaurant with high ceiling fans and shaded lights, and a very Khmer atmosphere inclusive of dim lighting and rustic wooden furniture. Most of the tables were reserved and I was brought to my table with my hostel's name on it. I was pre-told that it would be a buffet style dinner, but I couldn't believe how grand the set up was. There was food being heated under those portable silver gas stoves everywhere. Adjacent were also booth-like kitchens where you can order your own fried or soup noodle and satay skewers. A dessert selection of Bo Bo Cha Cha toppings were in a line up of bowls (sort of like shave ice but all liquid topping), and there were even some international items to cater to the westerners. The selection was endless from Khmer options to some cross over between Thai and Vietnamese dishes. I realize that Khmer food is quite the fusion between Thai and Viet food (no surprises here when it's a country sandwiched between the two); not spicy like Thai food, but not as flavourly strong as Vietnamese cuisine either. It sort of meets in the middle being more mild and simpler with more fish options than the former two as well.


The dance started an hour after dinner and out came six girls in traditional Khmer costumes and displayed a performance of balancing acts and hand gestures to traditional music being played live in the background. The males soon followed and as the show progressed through the six ish (I lost count) mini dances, I realize each dance represented a story of Khmer culture and of course there was a love story intertwined into it. At first I felt the dance was a bit slow for my liking, but it got more interested as it went on and I was very drawn to the costumes they were wearing (textile and clothing background alert haha). At the end I even got to take a photo with one of the Khmer girls where I realize they were so much shorter in person than from watching her on stage. Her headpiece probably added 20cm to her height and her face was also drenched in sweat, probably from her layers of gold accessories and costume getup.

I would highly recommend this venue just for the experience even if you aren't into the cultural dance scene. It was so worth it and a great opportunity to taste various Khmer dishes as well. I felt like a princess today as girlie as that sounds.



Goodbye & Hello

KUL has been the lab rat of my travelling lifestyle adjustment as it was my first stop, but I couldn't be  more excited to announce where I am now!

Siem Reap (pronounced 'rep'), Cambodia was one of the top place I knew I had to jet set to as the beauty of the temples and blog stories I read convinced me that a first hand experience would do it justice even more than what I had researched. Even though it will be the shortest place I'm staying in, I'm thankful that I was able to squish it into my SEA route and make some precious memories in this "Land of Smiles".

First thing I did after landing? Get a massage done by a visually impaired lady. Not only because I was lacking sleep from a 2:30am journey and wanted a cheap massage (only 6 US for an hour), I wanted to give back to the community and support those that are visually impaired as there is an institution here call 'Seeing Hands' that trains those born without sight to provide massage services to earn a living. So I got a tuk tuk (open air taxis that are super affordable to commute by-google them for a better description), to drive me there. Not going to lie, the outside of the place was in a narrow alley and super rundown and couldn't have been less sketched, but this young girl welcomed me (the masseuse's daughter) and without further adieu her mom got started in preparing the massage bed in that room (you keep your clothes on btw). She was VERY good and I couldn't have felt more relaxed from my tired travels. When I was done, her husband came in the room and I realized he was visually impaired too. I told her I gave her a 10 US instead of just 6 US and she was so happy (and I was ridiculously  overjoyed too).

I couldn't have felt more pampered so without hesitation upon seeing a large tank of 'Dr.Fish' (fish that eat your dead skin cells) in a tank a few stores down called Pure Vida (a foreigner owned franchise) I jumped on the idea. And for 3 US for 30minutes how could I say no? I had had this done before in Seoul two years ago and thought 9000 won was cheap (~$9), but a third of the price and fishes ten times as big didn't make me think twice. As the fishes were so large I felt like they were smooching my feet and ankle and it felt super tinklish at first, but shortly after, I was enjoying this fun experience and now my feet are super soft!
Fish Amok
Later on I explored the area of my hostel (The Siem Reap Hostel) which is in a very awesome location and is also very very nice-I definitely recommend them. It's close to all the places I had wanted to go and for those farther, a tuk tuk could easily take me there. Despite getting a natural bath of sweat from being under the 36C sun, I sighted Central Market, wandered into Alley West (a street of local boutiques that give back and supports the community) and found myself in the quieter day scene of Pub Street. I know I'm trying to keep my luggage weight at its minimal, but I couldn't stop shopping. Everything was crazy cheap, bargain-able, made in Cambodia, and most items purchased gives back to the community or helps those in need. What I love (already) about Siem Reap is how there are so many organizations that help the local people to support themselves-ether it be arts and crafts, ceramics, clothing, or services, I think these organizations are as abundant as temples here.
One of the socially responsible boutiques

BEAUTIFUL ARTWORK
I don't know where Cambodia stands in the rankings of third world countries, but I've already sighted a handful of disabled adults and kids in the markets who would try to sell you unique novelties to help their family out I assume. Though, it definitely is a Land of Smiles as everyone I've met so far is super friendly and approachable. I enjoy conversing with store owners, employees, and tuk tuk drivers a lot. They all think I'm from China though and don't understand how I'm Canadian but not 'white'.

Tonight I'm off to the Aspara dinner and dance show-one of the most popular performances here in the city, so more on that later!