Visiting like Home


Coming back to Seoul this time has been quite the different journey. No longer am I a student, no longer in the shoes of a cultural exchange, not studying abroad and dominantly here for travel purposes leave me nostalgic and doing things that remind me of only then. As I am here for an extended holiday, one thing for sure hasn't changed, and that is how comfortable I feel living here and how at home I find myself. Seoul is truly my second home.

The next leg of my duration in seoul was situated in Wolgok near Korea University where an unni (term for older "sister" in Korea) I met almost five years ago in Edmonton lives now and kindly welcomed my friend and I to stay with her and her younger brother. This was another reason I felt so at ease and was reminded of how much I want my own place, my own apartment to call home. These past two weeks consisted of a lot of resting, meeting up with friends, rekindling fond memories, and even exploring some places I've never heard of or got the chance to go two years ago. My Canadian friend with me has also brought out my outdoorsy and adventurous side at its best spontaneity as well- getting me off my butt and doing activities I haven't in Seoul before. Yes, despite living in Seoul for 4.5 months last time, there's still so much I have yet to accomplish- that's just how much there is to do in Korea!

To Do & See 
The dogs coming after us because we had dog treats in our hands!
Bau House Cafe: Always had the intentions of going to one, but never ended up doing so last time, this dog cafe satisfied my love for dogs big (like giants! but oh so cute) and small and filled the void I have in missing my own back home. Admission is free but you are inform to buy at least one drink during your stay (which is quite pricey at $6-$8, but you can stay as long as you want and given the cafe culture in Korea, prices weren't too far off). You can also purchase dog treats to feed the dogs, but beware to be swarmed my dog hungry puppy eyes and drool-ly woofs  all around you.

Seoul Forest: a station I didn't know existed (on the newest yellow subway line) and a place where you can picnic, hangout and even rent bicycles at. If you get out of exit 3 and immediately U-turn in the reverse direction of the exit, you will get to a pedestrian crosswalk where across the street you can rent bikes for 3$/hr or a tandem for $6/hr (you need to bring your passport), From here to the Hangang River is quite a distance to find your way around but you can get free maps for your perusal at the entrance of the Seoul Forest information booth and I promise you it will be worth it! The hangang river that runs through Seoul was one place I wish I got to spend more time at two years ago so it was awesome to be able to see so much more this time by bike!

Bugaksan Mountain & Seoul Fortress Wall- at the most northern peak of Seoul where you can supposedly sight North korea, this trek is highly secure besides the fact that it is near the Blue House aka where the government lives. Security and police officers are sighted once you get off the subway, but surprisingly there isn't much on the trek- I assume that they don't want to scare away all the tourists hiking? Anyhow, I thought I be fit enough to do this trek as it was paved with stairs but for some reason I kept huffing and puffing with a tomato red face like no tomorrow. My friend was perfectly fine so I think it was just my lack of fitness that hindered me, but I'm glad I pushed myself as you do get a refreshing, tranquil, and different view of Seoul from the top. Plus it's free, just that you have to register your name before starting and you must return to the office by 5pm.
After much huffing and puffing...
I made it!
To Eat & Explore

Gwangjang Market- another unni introduced us to this place which is apparently the largest outdoor market in Seoul. There's actually a lot of intersecting markets in this area as well (get off at Jongro-5-ga subway station) including Bangsan Market where u can find lots of baking supplies and wholesale goods. Gwangjang has a lineup of clothing stalls (mainly adjumma style), random supplies, household items and even a vintage shopping area that's quite hidden on the upper inner level of one building (if u spot a map of Gwangjang Market in this area it will tell you it's exact location as it can get confusing to locate (make sure to bargain as prices are jacked up)). Though the best and most popular thing to do here is to eat! People literally come here to eat through the market and I was informed that the most popular dishes are the mung/green bean pancake, handmade ddeok (rice cake) selection and sundae (intestine sausage that is super thick here-only for the brave hearted). We tried the first two and I have to say the lineup to get to the pancake was quite worth it. The texture was grainier as it had mashed up green beans in it, but the flavour and freshness of it was delicious. I'm not a fan of the doughy type of ddeok so for me that was mediocre.
A local favorite: "bindaetteok" (mung bean pancake)
Jeonju- one of the buzzing hotspots of Korea famously known for the origin of bibimbap. However I was recommended not to eat it here as it's popularity resulted in overpriced menus and with the abundance of traditional snacks and unique localities found in the Hanok Village, you probably would want to save your stomach for all that your eye hungers for. Jeonju is actually about a three hour bus ride from Seoul, but fortunately my name got drawn to get two fee tickets thanks to jeonju's tourism initiative to promote its name to foreigners (enter here). I never win anything and I was up against like three times the amount of people the bus could allot for so I was thankful to God for his providence and blessing. Jeonju is definitely worth a day trip (a day trip is usually enough unless you want to experience staying at the traditional Korea homes (Hanok) for a night)!
One of many traditional snacks made and sold here-so authentic & tasty!


The Korean Rural

It feels like I haven't blogged in a long time since coming back to Korea. If you are consistently following my blog, I must say that I appreciate you keeping in touch with my travels, though there's a part of me that feels Korea is home so my adventures haven't been as exciting as the ones I had back in SEA. Also, having traveled solo for a while, its nice to be reunited with old and new friends and also be traveling with a friend from home at the moment. Thus, I  have had less time to myself to reflect and share with you what I've been up to.
My first three days back in Korea were spent in Dangjin as I have a friend there teaching English. I've never heard of Dangjin before my friend mentioned this place so it was neat to explore a new city and also transition to a much rural and quieter area before returning back to the buzz of Seoul. To give you a quick idea of just how small this place is, I will share with you some examples. My friends and I ate dinner at one restaurant one night and of course my friend being Caucasian, tall, and red head made her a familiar face in the area already. The next night, the adjumma saw us walking by and one of us waved at her, then less than a minute later, she comes out to invite us to have coffee with her.  In another case, we were having kimbab in a small eatery when an adjussi sitting beside us was intrigued that we were foreigners in Dangjin; the next thing you know, he tells everyone in that place we are from Canada upon finding out from me! Being in a smaller city sure has its pros and cons. People are friendlier, will remember you, and want to make you feel comfortable as they feel you are far from home and don't have family around (Korea is a very family oriented country), yet the cons are that you are a rare sight where ever you go, so be prepared to be inquired about...a little too much.

We also took a day trip to Daejeon, an hour and twenty minute shuttle bus ride from the Dangin bus terminal. As Dangjin is small, there's not much of a shopping or entertainment scene, so most people bus into Daejeon to do these things. Now that I don't need to worry about luggage restraints, it felt so freeing to just shop and buy whatever I wanted. Though, I do notice that I'm more smart in my shopping purchases and won't just buy on impulse as much. From the bus terminal in Daejeon, you can get a taxi to the Daejeon KTX station and within that 30m radius, there is underground shopping, a pretty stream with a popular bridge in the area, and many streets of markets selling food and products for the home. The "younger/much trendier" section is a farther walk (after you cross the bridge, it's an underground area you have to head to), but so worth it as there' a wide selection and prices are cheaper than in Seoul-I highly recommend shopping here!

Before leaving, we took a day to relax and enjoy our time at a jimjjibang. Literally meaning "steam room," or commonly referred to as a naked spa, this place was inclusive of a sauna (where you are clothed), computer room, restaurant, fitness room, and a pretty decent size swimming pool on the rooftop! We went to swim in the evening which was really nice as we had the whole place to ourselves!

Here's to more blogs of my second home.




SEAsight

As I start becoming a broken record by sharing with others the SEA leg of my travels, I'm feeling more and more distant from this past whirlwind of a month, yet wanting to relive all these precious memories already. It's so surreal that all the time and effort I put into planning, researching, and finalizing details of this trip since January has now come to somewhat of an end. For the duration I was in SouthEast Asia, it was a quick overview, but nonetheless a jaw dropping memorable time. God never stopped providing nor did He cease to care for even my smallest needs. I ment amazing people from locals to travellers from the opposite side of the world and I am SO thankful for how everything turned out even if it wasn't according to my itineary.

Every place I went to was so different and I've learned so much no matter where I went. I feel I have enhanced my appetite with all the ethnic yet diverse flavours of SEA, gained a widen perspective on injustices and polictics in third world countries, and dare I say found a deeper calling to what I want to do down the road? Yes, it was just that SEA-mazing! I don't think words and pictures will ever do enough justice to what I've experienced in just over a month, but I can't imagine not having gone on this trip and not gaining what I have (even if some of it is weight).


Here's a quick over view of my 35 day, 4 country, 9 main cities I went to.


Highlights (will add more as I continue to reflect)


Kuala Lumpur-my test rabbit city for travelling where I'd overcome many fears and realized the potential in travelling alone
Siem Reap-getting to tour with New Hope Cambodia to see first hand the villagers and seeing poverty first hand, also made some amazing friendships I know I will be connecting with down the road
Penang-though I got sick and weak here, this lovely island was a great place to revive myself and the three ladies I met (aka my "mommies of Penang") was such a pleasure to explore with!
Yogyakarta -Mt.Bromo-Ijen tour-Bali-craziest and most wreckless tour of my life, but honestly the best experience ever as I would've never known what physical limits I was able to endure, break through, and realize what perseverance I had in me!
Singapore-being retaught what hospitality meant by the most hospitable, caring and loving people I've met and can call friends!
Hanoi-so foreign, yet so close to the heart. Northern Vietnam had so much to offer and see. Amazing country that I can't wait to return down the road!


What I would've done differently

Having more flexibility-I love being organize and planning, but I would definitely add in "free" days where I would do almost nothing and just rest more and indulge my senses with whatever surroundings I was in.
More Time-I also wished in certain places that I had more time to spend there as especially in the beginning of my trip I was flying every 3-4 days and even though it was only 60minute flights and didn't feel rush, it did feel I was going through a race or something to do as much as I can in the time that I had
Soaking it Up-The more poeple you meet traveling, the more you learn and exchange travel stories, and the more you want to do that you may not have been interested in before. Attractions you never considered may all of a sudden intrigued your curiousity and make you want to visit them. So slot in time to soak in unexpected moments!

So keep these things in mind before you plan your trip. I think what's most important is to consider your reasons and what you want to achieve from your travels when you are planning. That way, you can ensure that your travel priorities and needs will be met, and any additional or secondary things you want to accomplish is okay if you do or don't do them (it also gives you another reason to return to that country!).

I know more reflections will come over time, but for now, I will be focussing on my second home. Here's to my second round of Korea and adventuring more through my Seoul!


한국 안녕하세요! 나 돌아왔어요!










Jiao Hanoi!

I already know in full anticipation that one day I want to return and eat-see-do-venture through southern Vietnam. Too bad I didn't have enough time this time around, but when is there ever enough time? The more you travel, the more people and discoveries you make and there's just so much to explore through each country. Plus, it just gives you another reason to return in the future.

Northern Vietnam has educated me that there's more than just pho on menus and that motorcycle bike rides are dangerously fun even though being in the shoes of a pedestrian is life or death (I have master the art of crossing the street though!). I'm accustom to the Vietnamese language in Hanoi as it is much more soft spoken than that of Vietnamese back home (which I was informed those are Southern Vietnamese people who are loud and sounds like they are "arguing"). Most of all, having Vietnamese friends really helps you to be inform on the best of the best in terms of locality and hidden gems!

My local friend whom I met on exchange is a food enthusiasts, so when I first told her I wanted to join one of those motorbike food tours that are common here, she abruptly said I was with the best candidate ever. Turns out, this whole trip with her has felt like a scrumptious and perhaps slightly gluttonous time besides on the Sapa and Halong Bay tours.


Our last full day together, she took me to Nha Hang Ngon Restaurant (ngon means delicious in Viet) and there's also a location in Saigon as well as in Phnom Peng, Cambodia. Walking in it, I realize this was one of the fanciest places my has taken me seeing that we've literally been eating on the streets in Hanoi so often. The decor, open air atmosphere and also indoor air condition spots if you prefer made it somewhat feel like a grand and exquisite atmosphere. The concept of the food here is pretty neat as well, it's a mix of food court/hawker stall and restaurant ordering style where you can go straight up from the menu or visit any of the open kitchens to see what you like (for me, what looked the tastiest!) and order there. It felt very interactive as there's about 6-8 different mini kitchens that are designated to cook specific types of Vietnamese dishes. I finally got to try banh xeo (a thin and crispy pancake filled with bean sprouts, pork, shrimp and onions) and it is THE BEST THING I'VE EVER EATEN. I actually wasn't to excited for it initially because my grandma knows how to make this, but it's quite oily and unhealthy. Though eating it in its homemake country is such a delight to my senses and so much crispier, lighter and bigger than what my grandma can wok out. My friend said this restaurant wasn't even the best place to have it either as eateries that make it 'thy best' would sell only one specific item on the menu and not offer such a diverse selection on their menus like here.

On another note, I've never drank more Vietnamese coffee in my life, and coffee in general, but I'm having cups daily here, even multiple shots. One person even said coffee here is better than coffee from Brazil, one of the largest productions of coffee beans in the world. It only made sense that the innovative idea of mixing egg and coffee would arise, commonly referred to as "egg coffee" to the locals and intrigued tourists. When my friend first told me, I thought it sounded disgusting like a raw egg mixed with caffeine, but its nothing like that at all. Its more like whipped egg white mixed with sugar so it resembles a creamy foam over a shot of Vietnamese coffee. I cant even rave enough about how good it was, its almost like warm gelato in the mouth! We also tried other versions like egg coffee and beer/rum but it was gross and not a good mix at all, so please don't try that! Also on the topic of drinks, load up on the abundance of fresh fruit smoothies, iced teas and exotic fruit in general all over Vietnam to quench your thirst as fruit here are super sweet, cheap, and helps to refresh your electrolytes when you are sweating buckets.


This display is made from traditional Vietnamese hats
Next on our eventful itinerary was the Vietnamese Women's Museum. It's rare that I haven't visited as much museums as I usually do as I like being educated in the history of the place I'm visiting, but I knew I had to come here as having a museum focus just on women spurred my interest upon reading recommendations about this place. Basically it revolves around the history and settlement of Vietnamese women as well as their traditional religious beliefs, marriage, hard working lifestyle, and finally their fashion and what modernity means for them in today's day. I really appreciate and enjoy learning about the work ethics of Vietnamese women and especially all the sacrifices they've made during the Vietnam war. There is such a sense of empowerment, unity and strength when women come together and it inspires and propels me to never be stagnant whereever I am in life.

So the most spontaneous and one of the best thing I've done on this whole SEA trip was getting new glasses. I had not planned for this at all, but because I noticed one of the "nose tabs"(don't know its technical name) fell off from my glasses, I thought getting it fixed in Hanoi would be cheap and easy. However, they didn't have the tabs my glasses have, so I couldn't say no to $25 glasses. Yes, you read that right! For the price of one pair in Canada, I can get like ten pairs of lens AND frames here. Of course I'm not sure how different the quality is, and the frames are unbranded (though mine aren't either, but if you honestly think about glasses, they are one of the most jacked up items in North America because you are literally buy two pieces of glass and plastic frames typically made in Asia anyways, but mine does have"Swarovski" printed on the inside-don't know how true that is. Anyhow, thirty minutes later, I was a happy four eyes and the frames and lens turned out really well. In Hanoi, it's common to have each street selling only one category of consumer goods, so there's a whole street of glasses frame shops in the Old Quarter area, but the most popular (and this was obvious with the amount of people surrounding her booth) is called Thanh Luan. The owner is a friendly and smiley lady who isn't bothered even if you don't decide to buy after trying on multiple styles (she definitely knows how to provide the right service and does her business right!). My friend told me they have the best prices on the block and you can definitely bargain as well.

Of course I had to get my nails done, it's what Vietnamese people are known for back in Canada! For $10, I got a manicure with nail polish and nail art done. I don't normally wear nail polish travelling, but seeing that this is the last leg of my SEA journey, I might as well pamper myself before returning to Korea for a while.  There are spas everywhere just as with Bali and Cambodia, but do shop around to compare prices and be willing to pay more for better treatments ands spa atmospheres.

Vietnam has truly fascinated me. Not only that, but the people have been fascinated with me as well. I joked I never felt so attractive and questioned before as I am use to being asked about my ethnicity and all, but being in Vietnam is a different world. Almost everyone I've met or looks at me thinks I look Vietnamese, but they are confused when I don't speak Vietnamese when they talk to me. Then they are lost when I say I'm Chinese but born in Canada. Random people on the bus or stores would try to talk to talk me because they are so curious I speak English and they even mistaken my friend as a foreigner because she's with me! One really sweet girl even said I must have Vietnamese blood somewhere in my family tree because my eyes looked so "Vietnamese". While on the tour, I was the joke of the day as my last name is 'Pho' and I always had to explain the story behind my fake last name (if you don't know, I love to tell you!). By the end of this viet-venture, I've learned some Viet words, so next time I will just say I am Vietnamese. Lets see what happens then!

Jiao Hanoi!

Say Cat Ba See Cat Ba Do Cat Ba

I highly recommend doing a three day two night tour as if you are just doing one night on board a ship around Halong Bay, it goes by way too quick. The final destination for the second night is Cat Ba Island, farther south from where we were the first night, but the view is just as stunning. Plus, you get to stay at a bungalow on an island with less than 50 people ( depending on how big your tour group is) at a drastic fraction of what this luxury would cost in Hawaii or other tropical destinations.

The intricate process of planting a pearl
We also went to a Pearl Farm today where we got to see pearls being planted into oyster shells. There's only a 40% success rate, yet the process is very detail oriented and tedious to plant the 'seed' into the oyster. It was a quick tour but you were able to buy pearls after too. It wasn't too exciting for me as I knew I wouldn't be making any purchases, and it felt like a tourist gig to make you shop. Though, the knowledge I did cue into was interesting to say the least.

Unique formations on the way
Can't believe this hasn't fallen over
My highlight of today was going biking at Cat Ba National Park where we got to ride to the Viet Hai Village. Vietnamese people settled here way back when and the population is only around 500 if I recalled right. I asked our guide if anyone ever leaves this island and he said no and I couldn't understand. I think I've become too much of a city gal to ever be able to stay still and just settle on some random island and start farming. Despite my comical perspective, it was neat to see them grow only organic fruits and vegetables for themselves as they don't sell any of their plants. I got to see various chilli peppers, taro, lychee, rice and sticky rice plantations which was really educational. I didn't know bettlenuts grow on trees did you?

What really made this experience was the actual biking part. I haven't biked in years, and doubling up on a tandem five years ago doesn't count as that wasn't a very smart move for someone who hasn't biked since possibly junior high school. I don't know why I kept away from biking and partaking in outdoor sports (perhaps my dislike of gym class in grade school?) but biking reminded me of how exhilarating and thrillingly fun it can be. I was very wobbly and unstable at first, but once I got my balance down, everything came back naturally except for going uphill where I had to get off my bike to push it up. I don't have the greatest stamina getting back into things right away, but I'm glad I didn't just quit or chicken out either. I only regret not taking any photos of the mesmerizing view biking through the limestone formations as I was highly concentrated on biking and keeping my balance. It felt like learning to drive all over again as I was worried that even turning my head back to check my blind spots would end in me colliding into something or someone. Thankfully that didn't happen and the rush of adrenaline already has made me anticipating for the next chance to bike. Its so awesome that Ive gained so many opportunities to accomplish so much physical activities while travelling as Im usually not like this. Yet, I'm really appreciating this adventurous and outdoorsy spirit of mine and I hope it stays even when I'm back home.

On another note, I'm so turning into a beach girl. I love the tranquil and calm aspect of just getting lost gazing into the water, the surroundings and the horizon. It feels as if time stops just for you to capture these moments eternally and what better way than on such a peaceful and quiet island which makes it seem  like its just you and the world ahead? Its been such a blessing and I feel so ridiculously blessed its overwhelming.

Pirates of Halong Bay

Ahhh so exquisite and pleasant and so worth spending on a better tour. I feel like I'm living like a King being toured on a "luxury" named boat, being able to sit on the boat deck to relax and take in the view, and converse with tour mates from all over the world. I didn't expect to be on a tour with so many older couples and groups, but it's nice because they act like my mom and dad home away from home.


To get to the port of Halong Bay it takes about 3-4 hour of transit time from Hanoi. Along the way we had a pitstop for washroom and of course a shopping break if you choose to buy local handmade crafts and art here. This time, I definitely knew the company we were touring with and we also have a funny and informative tour guide joining us every step of the way from Vietnam Open Tours which made the tour even more enjoyable.


Aboard what was known to me as a 3 star boat upon booking, the facilities, rooms (most importantly washroom to me), were all comfortable, clean, and aesthetically simple, but well made. Paying a tad more from a shoestring budget really makes a huge difference. We found out later that the 2 star boar didn't even have water available for purchase. For lunch we were served family style, which again, exceeded expectations. Afterwards we got to enjoy the view on the ship's deck which was gorgeous! The limestone islands covered in bushy evergreen vegetation surrounds the view all around you and the illusion of farther islands acting as if it was the closer one's shadow made the view stunning like a water painting. The horizon is like a washout ombre colour effect-you got to see it to believe it! Did you know Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed here? So much for the 'Caribbean' part, but it makes so much sense as filming in Vietnam is probably way more budget friendly. And why not when the view creates so an aura of mystery and adventure right?
We also stopped at an island to see the largest cave in the area known as Sung Sot Cave or "Amazing Cave" and the beauty of it was so surreal that it felt manmade rather than natural. It also contributes to establishing Halong Bay as one of the top wonders of the world. It was well preserved and topped my prior cave experience at the Batu Caves in KUL as it wasn't plastered with Hindu gods and shrines all over, rather just showcasing creation at its best-pure and raw form.
After this wondrous experience, we got to go kayaking!!! I of course did not join this tour as a couple or as a group so I wasn't sure how it was going to work as each kayak had two persons (you could go alone but I would not have managed as a first timer), but thankfully some of the people didn't plan on kayaking and one of the couples' boyfriend needed a partner so I got to paddle with him which worked out to my favour as he sat in the back and did most of the work. Another first! but my arms are sore now even for the little work I did. I highly recommend kayaking though as the view is even better up close and personal and so much fun!
In the evening we had a family style seafood dinner which was all very tasty and fresh. There was a fried fish dish in which they mixed in dragonfruit and pineapple cubes which I thought was odd at first, but the flavours became more of a sweet and tangy one and was interestingly remarkable.After dinner I tried my hand at squid fishing, but I've never been a fisher nor did I have the patience, so that quickly ended.

Sapa Day 2

I wasn't too sure what conditions to expect today as I was told we would be trekking twice as long from 9-3pm with lunch in between. Don't be surprise that I actually expected the worse coming from the Indonesia tour, but praise the Lord it was so much better than that! Our same tour guide, Mai, from yesterday led the way again, but today we had more ladies from her tribe tag along as it was a longer tour and one that would eventually lead us to their village. Later we found out the main reason was so they could sell us stuff once we got there, however it was still very pleasant to trek alongside the native people of Sapa and exchange backgrounds and stories. Unfortunately, the weather was mistier and much more foggy than the day before, so in terms of the view, we didn't get to see as much.

The wonderful ladies made these by hand for us, from leaves!!
We were guided to hike the Muong Hoa Valley and onto many small trails to the Y Linh Ho Village where the Black H'mong Tribe resides. The route was downhill most of the way and for a third of the journey we were walking on paved roads which made it fairly easy. It got challenging as we headed into green pastures and fields as the wet factor made it harder to for us to trek and the mud and soften clay ground made some people from our tour slip and fall easy. A part of the way was also on the edge of  cliff with no railings or anything so our conversations all of a sudden fell silent as we were all heavily concentrated on our next step. Not going to lie, it felt quite dangerous to be trekking like this and I was beyond impress that these ladies were doing so so effortlessly AND with their babies strapped on their backs. They must be use to these conditions or else they are just plain fearless.
It was quite treacherous due to the fog and muddy conditions





We had a simple lunch at the entrance of Lao Chai Village, but it actually wasn't very pleasant as the village children and ladies kept pestering us to make purchases from them. I bought from one girl who helped me through the trek, but honestly as hard as it is, it's better not to purchase from them here because once you buy from one, you will feel guilty for not buying from another. The children's pestering voices turned into a white noise of chanting to our ears but they eventually moved onto another group of tourists once they realize we weren't going to make any more purchases. We also sited another tribe at this entrance as they were here to meet foreigners and of course try selling us stuff at a later time (they don't do it when the other tribe sells to us-must be a misconduct to do so I assume).

Calling this a humble experience would be an understatement. I was deeply touched by how simple their lives are, yet how happy they were with just what they do have. It reminded me that the simplest things in life are simply the best and that happiness and joy aren't ever found through materialistic means.
One of the young moms & their baby
A few stories stuck out to me. I was told one of the ladies trekking with us got married at 16, had a child by 17, and divorced shortly after as they didn't work out (apparently divorce is allowed in the tribes just like in western cultures). However, her ex-husband now lives in another village and doesn't take any responsibility over their child, so it is just up to her to raise her son up. Some of the village ladies actually have told her to sell her son so it's easier for her to support herself/re-marry, but she  said she would never do this (and how can any mom consider this?). Interestingly, it was also made known to me that one of the older ladies with a baby on her back (whom I assumed was her grandchild), actually bought this baby girl when she was born from another village as she always wanted a girl having had four grown sons now and not being able to have kids anymore. She saved up 5 million Dong (~$250 US) for this baby-crazy isn't it? I guess perhaps having lots of children is a safety net sort of thing that selling one off for money isn't unusual or as insane as it seems from a first world perspective. I felt more culture shock than I've ever been, the village way of life is so absurd from what I've been brought up with.

Lastly, I noticed in the villages that the husbands and children don't wear the traditional Black H'mong costumes. My tour guide told me because they don't want to nor have to as the villages are heavily westernized now and some of them even have cellphones and all. In fact, the ladies don't typically wear their costumes at home either, so it's mainly a tourist gig which is understandable as people do come  here to see these tribes and seeing them in the costumes makes it easy for them to be distinguish and also for them to sell their handicraft. Though I think it's quite sad really.
Sapa has taught me a lot about the beauty in the smallest things and come to appreciate all that  you have. If you are coming to Vietnam, do make a trip here, I guarantee you will see the world differently by the time you depart. When I was telling Mai I hope to see her in the future, she was so sweet and told me to bring my husband next time-it must be crazy to them that I'm 22 and not yet married. At this age, you're expected to have a kid already-say what?!