On Top of a Volcano & Under the Sea Sarah Wednesday, April 30, 2014

I never knew I would achieve so many firsts here in Indonesia. Sometimes it's awesome to have no expectations going somewhere new as whatever happens will be a noteworthy and learning full experience regardless. It's very ironic to me because initially, Indonesia wasn't even planned on my itinerary in the beginning, but due to some change of plans in between and having to swap out a country for later, I can say that Indonesia was meant to be all along.

 After Ubud and moving accommodations five days straight later, I settled in Sanur. A quieter beach area than Kuta on the other side of Bali (ultra touristy and heard it's quite distasteful as it's a lot of bars, partying, tattoo parlous and you get the point). Sanur is much more tranquil and quiet, and pretty clean too from my observation (joked as the retiree beach). As it is a low season of travelling due to the extremely high temperatures, I love the feeling of having a place all to myself. I felt ultra stereotypical when I spent 4+ hours on a beach chair just reflecting, dreaming, and even sun tanning. I never do this last one on the list, so it was bizarre and a first, but also a first gone intriguingly wrong-I got my first sunburn ever! Yes in 22.75 years of living, I've never been sunburned before. Perhaps I just tan when I'm in the sun for long, or my regular habit of sunscreen works fabulously, but the rays must be super strong here that it was able to tan and burn me in addition to the fact that I didn't reapply sunscreen thinking that I would be okay as always. I didn't even know I got sun burnt until I was on the way back home as I realized my left thigh was itching. Then I looked down and I was lobster red! It took a moment to click in that I was actually sun burnt and that my skin had a warm and heated sensation upon touch. It was strange, but cool at the same time haha. When I finally got to look at myself in a mirror, I realize my whole upper left arm was burnt as well as my nose, AND I have the worse tan lines and mixes of brown ever. How in the world did this happen? I don't even recognize myself now.

 Another first and one that I had planned was learning to scuba dive. Since learning the basics of swimming leading up to this trip, I couldn't have been more excited and in full anticipation for it. The night before I was getting anxious and reassuring myself that everything will be okay. I thought I was crazy that I went from a would be drowner a few months ago to straight into scuba diving; I hadn't even tried snorkeling or an easier water activity to work up to this! Thankful for prayers, I met a girl and new friend who was in the same boat as me! And not only that, she just graduated in fashion related studies and was traveling SEA on her own like me (wow I think I've lost count of divine appointments by now)! I'm also so glad I had such a patient, kind, and funny instructor because I am not going to lie, I was a slow learner, a mess and a frightful being at first (even if I didn't show it).

My fabulous instructor & divinely appointed friend!

I signed up with Bali Diving (very organize, accommodating in arrangements and awesome!) and this was inclusive of two dives, lunch, and transportation to and from the dive site. I was suggested Tulamben, a small fishing village famous for diving due to a US Army Transport ship that was torpedoed and sunk by the Japanese submarine back in WWII.  You can't make out the ship anymore as it's now deteriorated and much plants and coral has grown over the remnants, but as a first time diver, the whole experience was surreal and made me in awe with my eyes since I was literally and figuratively speechless at the sight of swimming with fishes, learning the danger of fire coral, and doing something I thought would only be a dream for so long.

So onto the hardships of diving, my first half of my dive was terrible. It's so much easier to practice on land than in water due to the pressure, buoyancy factor, and fear you are caught up in once something goes wrong. The hardest part for my body to get use to was,

1. I am not drowning even if I don't move as I have an inflatable vest on (thus you don't need to know how to swim at all though it is very beneficial)

2. I am able to breathe in and out of my mouth while my nose is being plugged, and no I will not suffocate just because I feel water is in my mask (the mask covers and in a way plugs your nose from breathing because you should only be breathing out to get rid of water-never in)

3. I am able to relax, concentrate on what I need to be doing, and not rush to remember every hand signal or make sure to check everything on me is okay (or else you panic like I did).

4. I can breathe in and out and hold my breathe in between to swallow and 'equalize' the pressure (ear pops like on an airplane), and I won't die!

Out of the first dive, I came up 4 times with the last putting me on a "break" because I panicked when water was in my nose and I started swallowing and choking on too much salt water, then I couldn't understand and properly 'equalize' the pressure in my ear so it hurt immensely, then my mask was giving me problems and water kept going up my nose every time I tried blowing out, then the fourth I  don't even remember what went wrong. So for the ease of watching one of us at a time for safety measures (my new friend had got told off my two divers because she almost stepped on fire coral), I was put on a break. I really felt the desire to quit come up as I was very frustrated with myself, but I knew I wasn't letting that happen so while waiting on the coast I practiced breathing mouth only, equalizing pressure, all the while asking God for His strength and to help me be able to make this happen and see the beauty underwater.

When it was my turn to dive again, this time, miraculously of course, I was able to do everything slowly, but properly! I was diving! I was actually scuba diving! It was utterly amazing and everything I thought it would be. Once you get everything, then you do enjoy and embrace it so much more. My second dive together with my new friend was even better. We both had got the hang of it and towards the end, our instructor even let us freely swim on our own without holding us from the back like the first time. Wow I can finally say now that I've been on top of a volcano, and under the sea! woooot!

Lastly, I got the opportunity to ride on the back of a motorcycle. I thought this would eventually happen as taxis here are either cars or motorbikes, but I never had the guts to get taxied by the latter. With a last minute decision to head to the Panur Sindu Night Market farther along Sanur beach from where I'm staying, my lovely homestay family (the mom and toddler) took me there on the back of her motorbike! Weeeee! For some reason I always thought it would be easy to tip over or stay on, but it was such a smooth and fun ride and I can't wait to do it again! Also, the night market is small, but there's lots of local delights you can try for less than $1 and also some stalls selling local and knock off goods (I don't recommend spending on that stuff though, shopping is so much better in Ubud).

OOO-BOOD Sarah Monday, April 28, 2014

After an hour long ferry ride, three hour humid shuttle bus, and finally an air conditioned taxi ride, I couldn't have been happier to settle in Ubud (pronounced like the title of this post and not oo-bud as I originally thought). Ubud is the hub of Balinese culture as it's the central hotspot for tourists-with the influx of travelers

steady especially after Eat Pray Love was filmed. I stayed at a private room bungalow for a night and the line up view of fresh and green rice paddies outside my bedroom was glorious to wake up to. Ubud literally has hundreds of accomodation options for you to choose from. For a cheap rate, you can get a nice room with breakfast commonly known as "homestay" though it's basically just a bungalow or home locals rent out with separate doors and bathrooms for each room (mine even had a basic stove setup).

This sounds crazy, but the sight of toilet paper and a legit toilet brought joy to my bathroom duties (wasn't kidding when I said previous facilities on that tour was terrible). Another common thing Ubud and in general Bali is known for are spas. There are people handing out pamphlets all along Monkey Forest Road and the surrounding area. You really have to compare prices though as one place can vary drastically from the next and I wouldn't pay more than 150000 rupiah (~$13) for a massage when you can spot rates as low as 55000 rupiah. Of course service level and facilities may differ too, but at the ceiling rate, you already are getting so much more than what a massage would cost back in North America. Upon arrival I got a Balinese style massage shortly after settling it. I really just needed to pamper myself and feel relieved from tension from the horrific commute the past few days. I felt so relaxed the whole time and I even got to shower right after to wash off the oil (for your reference I went to Ubud Wellness Spa and paid what I suggested as tops).

Picking bugs and eating them off each other

A mom nursing her young!

I started today at The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary and it brought forth an unexpectedness of immense joy! Besides being a tourist attraction, it's first and foremost a natural habitat for the long tail macaques and they have over 500 of them currently. I had read up on them being quite mischievous beings as they aren't afraid of humans and will even jump on you if they spot you with food or plastic of any sort. I was just holding my water bottle upon entering when this monkey jumped on my stomach to try to grab it. I had an initial freak out, but afterwards I came to adore these little monkeys. They ARE so human-like from observation, from catching a mom nurse her little one to seeing them pick bugs off each other, cuddle and fight, they are so adorable. So despite my precautions of putting my water bottle away, one monkey kept following and grabbing onto me because he/she thought the tassel on my bag resembled a banana-it was hilarious to bystanders but quite humorously annoying to me. You would think I had enough of the monkeys by the end of it, but I decided to buy some bananas to feed them, and I got even more attacked. One monkey jumped on my head and started pulling at my hair and yet another one slapped my leg when I tried to snatch the banana back!! They are such rebellious creatures! If you don't have a phobia of monkeys, definitely come here for some entertainment, but just try not to be a target yourself haha.

Afterwards I went to the Ubud Palace which wasn't so exciting so I just snapped some photos and went on my way. However, I lingered way too long at the Ubud Market. I'm a sucker for local and hand crafted ethnic good so I spent more than expected for souvenirs and clothing for myself. If I didn't have luggage and budget restraints, I probably would've went even crazier. What I learnt is to always bargain and be firm on what price you want as they jack prices up expecting tourists to bargain. Also, never ask for the price of an item unless you intend to buy it, the seller will keep pestering you if you walk away and some would try continually persuading me to buy it saying it's "badluck" if I didn't purchase from them. I also really like checking out Ubud's scene of boutiques in the area. It's too high for my budget, but I love window shopping and asking questions about locally designed products and asking to take photos of unique designs, displays and interiors. One shop that stood out to me was far from Balinese and when I asked the employee, she said the owner is French; I wasn't surprise as the aesthetic was so different.

So onto Balinese food. It's so good! I've been sick of Nasi Goreng and other stereotypical Indo dishes so I ventured into restaurants to try some authentic dishes and it didn't disappoint. I had 'soto medan' my first night and it's basically a coconut curry based soup with sliced chicken, vermicilli, and other vegetables. It was light, but flavourful and I can't wait to have it again. Another dish I had was at Ibu Rai, a popular restaurant named after a women who owned a famous warung (food stall) at one point on Monkey Forest Road (just pass the football field going up and recommended to me by a boutique employee). The exterior and interior of this place is gorgeous and adorned with bright colour and rustic furniture. Initially I wanted to try this 'crispy duck' dish I kept seeing on menus, but as I was  having an early lunch it wasn't ready yet as it takes quite some time to prepare this duck. Instead, the waitress recommended me this fish dish called 'Ikan Bakar Bumbu Bali' and I loved it! I didn't even know what it would be like at first, but I took my time savoring it as I am normally a fast eater. The fish was perfectly marinated and so soft and tender (if those words can be used to describe fish) and the turmeric flavoured rice, peanut chip, and well seasoned bean sprouts and veggies paired delectably on my palate.

 Last but not least, I got to have the duck before I left Ubud. When I finally received my order and took my first bite,  I realized why it takes up to half a day to prepare. It's so the duck is roasted so that it's literally crispy outside and inside so even the fine bones are crunchy and can be bitten and eaten as well. It was like fried chicken but duck and unforgettable. Maybe I got accustomed to hawker food stalls and food being next to instant as it would usually be half prepared prior to ordering, but I really appreciate Balinese food being made to order as it's really reflected in the taste and quality of the food. The cost of eating is higher compared to other SEA places as Bali is very touristy, but the environment and service is so much better too!

Day 3: Craziest Tour of my Life Sarah Sunday, April 27, 2014

So I wasn't wrong, day 3 was terrible and by the end of it, the second to best part was finishing this insane tour.

When we arrived at our accommodations, we were told we can pay more to see the "blue fire" event in the middle of the night, which practically none of us were informed of when booking this event. That meant trekking up to Ijen Crater at midnight for an hour and a half IN THE DARK and staying up there until 4am and then trek down again. Thankfully, as much as this tour sucked, I'm glad I met some awesome tour mates who were in the same boat as I was-sick and tired of the extra fees, flat tires, late arrival to our guesthouse, and desiring more sleep than the sight of blue flames (though people want you to think you are missing out if you didn't do it), I mean, I'm sure it's cool and all, but we didn't think it was worth it.

Well, we didn't regret it and instead we were so glad we just stuck to the usual 4am set time to head to the base of Ijen. It took almost an hour drive so we arrived at 5am and were told we had to come back down by 8am, which meant we barely had any time to linger once we got up there as it would mean 1.5 hours each way. At this rate though, we could care less about schedule or no schedule as we became rebellious tour-ers and decided we were all going to take however long it was going to take up there and ignore the driver as we've endured through enough shortcomings from up to this point already.

So once the trek started (no tour guide by the way, just a one way path up), I became really thankful I was trekking this after the sun had risen as this route was steeper and more unstable then yesterday. I felt like yesterday was just a teaser to the real game and I couldn't imagine doing this in pitch darkness as it was hard enough in broad daylight. I don't even know if 'hard' is enough to describe it. I felt myself physically, emotionally, mentally, and psychologically challenged while going up. At times I really wanted to throw in the to towel but I kept reminding myself that I didn't come all this way just to endure crazy mini van drives and a horrendous tour. All the while I was asking God for strength and self talking myself to keep persevering and to believe that the aftermath of this would be great. As you journey up, you will also sight lots of local men carrying weaved baskets in between a wooden stick on their shoulders. We were told by one of them that they make two treks a day up and down to collect about 90kg of solidified sulphur at 800 rupiah/kg. That's about 7 cents US/kg and only $13 per day. Seeing them work this hard at the sacrifice of their own health motivated me to keep going. One nice local man even chopped us sturdy tree branches so we could use them as walking sticks. AMEN because it was a tad easier to have a third "leg" to use as a stepping guide and footing. He was also friendly and led us up all the way and would even wait for us when we took rest breaks. Tip: find a sturdy stick or chop one it's so much better!


I got to say the first half of the trek is the worse, but shortly after the midpoint (you will spot a resting area where they sell snacks and all), the last 1/3 of the way is flatter and easier to foresee your final destination. You will also smell yourself getting close as the sulphur is intoxicating here. I also realized that a lightweight scarf is not only multi purposeful in traveling for covering up for temple visits, adding to one's attire, as a sarong, but also as a muffler/mask. Unfortunately, mine already smelled like sulphur from yesterday so I made shift my cardigan into one. The trek also seems more encouraging when you have company that can complain, but also joke and laugh about it with you as it lightens up the mood and relieves some built up of frustration at times.

These are carved from sulphur and sold along the trek

Finally after what seemed like forever, we reached the top! I felt like we pretty much had it all to ourselves compared to the day before at Bromo, as not seeing the "blue fire" event and sunrise meant the hype of tourists were already gone by the time we arrived around 6:30am. Once again, a thick smog was rising from the bottom of the crater and as shocking as it was, you see these men collecting the solidified sulphur to bring back up (about an additional hour to trek down to the core of the crater-we didn't do it due to time and the risk of our health as you are right next to the sulphur deposit). There is also a clear blue lake sandwiched between the crater and next to the main deposit of sulphur; it was so stunning to see such natural elements all in one place. To our surprise, a local told us the lake is actually boiling hot and the sulphur collected is sold to be used in cosmetics and sugar consumption; this really made me rethink my habit of makeup and love for candies.


So I thought the trek down would be way easier as you are siding with gravity, but it's actually just as hard. Mind you I was wearing worn out Keds (great choice right?), so I was constantly having to walk like a penguin and cautiously watch my step or else I would slip and lose my grip. Because it was steep and gravel-ly going downwards, you actually had to use more leg muscles to ground yourself against gravity so it was just as treacherous as going up. My legs were also very 'wobbly' as it hadn't recover from going up yet, so this made it to be more difficult. Also in my perspective, this trek is limited to a certain crowd. Even though I did see older people besides the local men working, it's a tough climb and I know for one thing my parents would never be able to make it up. But age is one thing and fitness level is another, so just some food for thought when considering this. Do keep in mind that it's not a competition to the top so you can definitely pace yourself and take longer than the expected 1.5 hours.

All in all, I was discussing with my wonderful tour mates and we joked that we didn't know what to say about this whole experience-to despise it or to love it. To recommend or not recommend? For me, it was the worst tour in my lifetime, but best experience ever. Maybe I've been spoiled in other places, but I really had to rough it out like Tarzan with ugly facilities, unaccomodating accommodations, unknown circumstances, un-catering drivers, and being lost and confused half (by half I mean majority) of the time. Never have I felt so gross, dirty, tired, and begrudgingly submissive to these conditions. Yet, we also figured that minimal details are given or known about these tours for this reason. Most agencies just do the sales part, but majority of the tours fall under the same company was our guess, and by the end of it, none of us even knew the name of the company or contact number to warn future travellers as we were given no information of the sort. It really comes down that you are doing this for the exceptional scenery, though a good tour would make the experience so much better.

My wonderful tour mates and I

However, having now accomplished this, I personally feel like a wild card traveller as knowing I'm able to manage with bare necessities makes me feel appreciative of all the blessings and comfort I have back home. If I never did this tour, I would've never been able to see such beauty in God's creation, gain such humble insight, or realize my potential to persevere and fight through the spirit of wanting to quit.

Would I do this again? I don't know, but I have to say you have to do something like this at least once in your life time. Not only do you feel on top of the world after, but boy do you have a story to tell.

Day 2: Craziest Tour of my LIfe Sarah Saturday, April 26, 2014

You shouldn't be surprise that I'm going to tell you the second day only gets better harhar.

So our day started behind schedule and with the group of us half asleep, shivering (I forgot how cold it can be on a mountain but good thing I brought pants) and us uncertain of when our jeeps would arrive as we waited outside our accommodations.

 Indonesians either aren't very good with being on time, or it's just this tour. Finally half an hour late, jeeps which by the look wouldn't have passed Canadian vehicle standards arrived and we were on our way to Mount Pananjakan. I was in a jeep with two pairs of German couples-way to fifth wheel right? Anyhow I thought I would be able to catch some sleep during the hour or so ride but turns out not only was I not able to sleep, but I had to be fully alert sans seatbelt in the front passenger seat and pray to God that this treacherous ride up a windy mountainous road and maximum safety risks would come to an end. The roads were crazy and there were so many jeeps going up to this mount and with such narrow roads, I couldn't believe jeeps were still trying to pass each other. Finally after what seemed like a heart attack of life and death, we've arrived and parked behind a traffic jam of parked jeeps and motorcyclists whom were there to drive people up the remainder of the way if they didn't want to walk-at a cost of course. Well we opted to walk and I totally didn't expect this steep and rough of a climb up to the viewing point. At 4:30 am I was not in the shape or alert enough for this. Plus my heart rate was increasing quick due to the heightened elevation as well.

The lineup of jeeps all the way up

So after huffing and lugging my legs up, there was a mass of people already reserving their viewpoint spots. Some people must've came earlier or stayed overnight it seems.Tourists, locals, mobs of people everywhere with their cameras ready and in your face. What happened to April being a low season for travelling Asia? As the sunset was coming up I thought people would leave after seeing it and that the crowd would die down, but turns out I was wrong and the crowding and fighting for spots just got worse. People can be quite rude and obnoxious and hog a spot for long so if you are short like me you especially just have to be assertive and ask people to move (in a nice way) and let you take some photos.

Was it worth it? After a treacherous drive, tiring trek, impatiently beating through the crowds and finally getting to stand where the railing was facing the skyline-I have to say YES. I couldn't believe the view I saw. It was like heaven on Earth with the clouds (and probably sulphur as I learned later) casting a wispy and dreamy atmosphere with mountain peaks coming through as the sun lit up the sky and casted away the night scene of sparkling stars and a crescent moon. It was so surreal-ly beautiful. I think this tops the ocean front view I saw in a Taiwan 5 years ago where the sky was streaks of blues, lilac and orangey pinks.

And this was only part I of II viewpoints.

Next we drove to the base of Mount Bromo. A thick odour took overtook our senses as we realized it was a heavy smell of sulphur in the air being released as Bromo is an active volcano. Once again we needed to trek to the top and instead of motorcyclists this time, there are horses you can pay to ride to the top. I felt bad for the horses...they were probably suffering from the sulphur intoxication and perhaps even unwilling to carry anyone as they looked tired and not desiring to gallop back and forth. The scene was filled with a thick coating of smog and this mustn't have been good for one's health, especially the higher you trekked. Most people looked liked bandits with their faces covered with masks or scarves as to breathe sulphur at its minimum.

This trek wasn't as steep but it's not for the unfit either (though doable even if you are out of shape like me-my legs were shaking by the end of it). It's not the smoothest walk and the whole way is unpaved black sand and horse poop so I would recommend a horse. You can probably imagine how many horses were here. At the base of the mount there is a narrow staircase that leads you to the very top with just a railing for you hold your ground-scary I know.

Finally the peak! I couldn't believe the lack of railings and security measures...one unfortunate slip and you might plummet right into the volcano. The sulphur smell was deathly up here, but worth the temporary sacrifice of health for the view. I really felt on top of the world and I saw some dare devils walked narrowly inwards towards the circumference of Bromo to take photos. Never have I ever seen anything quite like it. I was in between the beauty of God's creation, the airy clouds, and of course sulphur infused air which  was not pleasant at all.

After such a beautiful mess of a journey I felt like nothing could've gone worse or lacked expectations anymore as much had already been unexpected in a negative manner (in terms of the unwritten itinerary and commute). I thought too fast as shortly after we headed out from breakfast, not only did we have one, but two flat tires with later a third and final incident causing a breakdown to our van or else we just ran out of tires to replace it. It was ridiculous and humorously insane. Only in Indonesia I tell you. I'm still amazed at how well I took all this, definitely a story to share from here on. An hour later a replacement mini van came to the rescue And we are on our way again.

What a journey it has been. I'm being sarcastic when I say I'm looking forward to day 3 of this ridiculously crazy tour.

Day 1: Craziest Tour of my Life Sarah Saturday, April 26, 2014

or Sketchiest Journey EVER.

So I never knew what I had really got myself into when booking a tour upon arrival to head to Gurung (Mount) Bromo and the Ijen Crater. I had read up and done a lot of research on these tours and was forewarned of scams, crazy rides, and unexpected happening. I guess until you experience it first hand, you will never fully comprehend what that person fully experienced as you think you are more than aware to avoid these scenarios.

I do love how GREEN Indonesia is!

First of all, these tours are common and tend to be 3 days/2 nights or the like and consist of long driving distances depending on your starting point. Today I spent 12+ hours in an "air con" mini van (in quotations because the air con was terribly weak) and though there were breaks, I did definitely get antsy and couldn't have anticipated more to get off the vehicle. Another thing is, the two drivers knew minimal English so communication was little to nothing and details of breaks, stops, and even vehicle changes??!! weren't made known to us until the moment it happened. Yes, I know. Sketch is the word.  So besides being clueless, constantly incubated, and feeling what in the world I had got myself into, the ride was crazy! Indonesian drivers just do whatever they want and though I was sitting towards the back of the van, I felt like we were going quite speedy and cars kept honking from every which way while motorcyclists just weaved through traffic like they rule the roads. I did fall asleep quite often which was nice, but waking up because I had bumped my head on the window or vehicle was not fun.

Worse part is, I thought I had done enough research to not be scammed and through getting price quotes about these types of tours to finally booking through my guesthouse, I actually thought I had scored the best deal. Turns out, the fellow travellers on my van paid less if not half of what I paid and theirs included a Mount Bromo jeep tour which mine didn't (HIGHLY recommend paying for regardless because the intoxicating walk is ugly). Well, when I exchange the rate, this tour is still affordable, but it just seems unfair how some people are getting more than what I paid for at an even lower cost. Also to clarify, I did have to pay extra to be dropped off in Denpasar rather than just at the Bali ferry station and to supplement the cost of staying alone as prices usually reflect a minimum of two people/room. So a tip so far is that you really have to shop around LOTS if you have the time to that is. When I inquired about the price difference at the office, turns out different agencies may price these tours drastically different, so instead of opting for the lowest price you find, look again and then decide on what price/package is best for you. Some things you just don't know until you find out, so I will take it as a learning experience. Though, at this rate, I rather wish I paid more for a better tour with English speaking drivers, guides/legit itinerary, and inclusion of more 'fees' instead of sticking to the bare minimal and my budget.

Things you don't know on these group van tours:

-meals are not included but stops are made for washroom breaks at gas stations and at a restaurant for lunch (whenever- no set time)

-vehicle changes happen at midpoint or at any time to swap passenger coming/going from either direction (no clue why they do this)

-an hour before reaching your accommodations at the bottom of Mount Bromo, you are dropped off at the office for (finally) details of the tour by English speaking Indonesians (Praise The Lord!) then followed by a confirmation of where you are staying (yes where you are told to stay may change)

-accommodations aren't bad, but lacking toilet paper etc.

So the plan of attack for Mount Bromo:

3:30am-take jeep to Mt. Pananjakan (highest mount in the area) to see sunrise and see over all the other mountains and the volcanos-told to be the best view (1hr travel time from accommodations)

4:30-5:30-spend an hr or so here

5:30-6:30-drive to base of Mt. Bromo

6:30-7:30-spend an hr or so here to sightsee

7:30-drive back to accomodations to freshen up and eat breakfast

10 ish-drive back to the office to transfer to Ijen Crater
This is honestly the craziest experience I've had so far-perhaps even in my lifetime. I'm writing this at 11pm, so in 4.5 hours I will be up, good thing I slept so much on the ride here. If you have any questions, just ask me, I have so much more details (and advice) to give you if you are to embark on a tour like this.

Feeling Foreign Sarah Thursday, April 24, 2014

Yogyakarta (or Jogyakarta/Jogja) NOT Jakarta.

Some people tend to mix up the two or just assume I meant to say I'm going to the latter rather than the former when I tell them. I don't blame them as before this trip, and before being educated on Indonesia's geography, I never knew what or where Yogyakarta is either. So here's a short lesson, Yogy for short is the capital of the central region on the island of Java, Indonesia (Jakarta on the other hand is the capital and largest city of Indoneisa,  hence the familiarity of the name). I chose Yogy for a couple of reasons. First, I knew capitals and big, popular cities tend to be modernized, crowded, and touristy as with my first hand experience in Kuala Lumpur. Also, by this point of my travels in SEA (mid way already =( ) I figured I probably be sick of city life, so I opted to experience the more local and authentic side of a country. Yogy is also considered to be quite the Javanese art scene with its multitude of batik artists, dance shows, music etc. and lastly, I had to choose a more central location on Java as my main reason for travelling to Indonesia is to take a tour to Mount Bromo and the Ijen Crater, both presently active and from what I hear, stunningly natural forms.

What I didn't expect from Yogy was feeling so foreign. Maybe my lighter skin colour, western way of dressing, and mannerisms stood out or something, but I felt like everywhere I went eyes would be directed upon me. Never have I felt so out of place in an 'Asian' country. I guess in Malaysia and Singapore, Chinese people were abundant, and in Cambodia, there was a bigger population of tourists to look at, but I'm definitely a minority and foreign specie here. I had a tour with a becak shortly after I arrived (a pedi cab/ bike taxi where your driver is biking you from behind and you are sitting in a mini carriage like seat (not fancy at all btw)) and I felt quite intimidated at first. Not only was I facing on coming traffic (unlike in Cambodia where the driver is in front on tuk tuk rides), people would eye me from their motorcycle or driver's seat as my driver biked passed them. When I walked into a local restaurant (which I thought would have tourists), I realized it was all locals inside and I felt like everyone was watching me walk in and sit down at a table on my own; I even caught some glances while I ate.

Anyhow, it is what it is, an experience and in places where I'm bound to stand out, it's only because the sight of foreigners are few and curiosity just leads to one staring more. I guess if I saw someone looking very exotic back home I would probably take a second look as well to be fair.

My driver was very friendly though. I learned that he wants to improve his English and learn new languages so he chooses to park in front of my guesthouse to get business from foreigners. Though I felt like I was breathing in way too much second hand smoke (another reason I was scared for my life in the becak as he kept smoking (though I did tell him its unhealthy and he just chuckled)), he was very sweet and would cater to where I wanted to go, gave me mini history lessons, and even said he would take any amount of payment as he thought I was very nice at the end!

On  my mini tour of Yogy, I stopped at a Batik shop where I was given a tour of this local art form. I know I went to the Batik Painting Museum in Penang, but hearing from a local artist about the amount of detail and time it takes to make a piece was very enriching and made me even more appreciative of batik art. Learning that they don't earn very much as the money goes to charity and back to the community (a cost of a large scale batik design is only $42-think about how much paintings cost in North America), I felt guilt tripped into buying a smaller piece. However, I do like what I purchased, and knowing it goes to a good cause justified it a tad more for me.

The artist & his batik piece

I got this one!

Tomorrow I start my tour which consists of a twelve hour drive to Mount Bromo. I hope I don't get antsy and lose patience, but it will call for some lengthy reflections and quality time with myself as much rest is needed. Thus, the rest of tonight was of rest and practicing swimming as there's a lovely pool just outside my room! Yeahhh!

Pray for safe, healthy and joyous travels here on for me please! My body is no longer feeling weak or bloated, but somehow I caught the coughs ugh. Never thought I say this, but best part of getting the coughs is buying this medicine from Watson's Pharmacy in Singapore called Duro-Tuss-it's apricot flavour and the most delicious medicine I ever had! Trust me and try it!

A medicinal fruit- quite unique don't you think?

The Heart of the City Sarah Thursday, April 24, 2014

I think my last twenty-four hours in Singapore must've been the cherry on top of my whole time there. I started the day on my own picking up a visa I need for later, then I headed to Gardens at the Bay to check out the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest with my friend. It's interesting how local residents pay less than foreigners and also have the option of visiting one or the other while foreigners have to buy a combined ticket for both exhibits. Thankfully my Tiger Air boarding pass gave me a discount which worked out so I was just paying local resident rate.

There was a special 'Tulipmania' exhibit going on so the Flower Dome was especially a rainbow of imported Tulips from Amsterdam. This called for my photo opportunities and of course selfie times haha. The plants itself were quite interesting, but maybe because I came from the Tropical Spice Garden in Penang that I didn't find the Cloud Forest too interesting (so if you have the choice, just go to the Flower Dome). Silly me, I always thought the Cloud Forest referred to those wired 'Avatar-like' glowing trees in the Gardens and Marina Bay Sands (MBS) that you see on advertisements for Singapore, but apparently that's a whole other thing, though these 'trees' are so much more prettier at night-they glow in an array of colours.

"Avatar" like trees

What mesmerized me was the view of this whole area. I can't believe I left the heart of Singapore for my very last day, but I guess it made it even more memorable. Despite nothing being real (my friend told me Singapore increased its land mass by 'building' land where the MBS and the Gardens now stand-so crazy don't you think?) the infrastructure and design of everything in sight was very impressive.
That night we went to the Esplanade Theatre where they have a roof terrance that you can go to (for free) and get a bomb view of the MBS and surrounding area. It's  jaw dropping amazing and you definitely wouldn't have known without a local telling you what I term secret places (thank You!). We even caught the light show that happens every night at 9:30pm which brought out a lot of professional photographers to snap some beautiful images.

Afterwards we headed to Ku De Ta bar at the top of the MBS. Usually, they charge a $20 fee for non guests to go up to the top for the view during the day, but in the evening as the bar is open, it's free as long as you buy a drink. Of course there was a catch and that was that the cost of drinks were quite high. For a Singapore Sling (supposedly Singapore's cocktail) it came to $23, but the view was worth it and at least you're getting something with the cost besides the view.

I can't believe Singapore has come and on now as it has actually been my longest stay so far on this SEA journey, but I know God is not stopping the learnings, divine appointments, nor adventures. Thank YOU whether you treated me or not, gave me a tour, drove me, or did something or anything for me in this Merlion city because at the end of the day, it made my time in Singapore so welcoming and I'm beyond blessed.

On a side note, Popiah is bomb, try it!

"See-aeh-See-aeh my Pung Yo-s :)"

Zen-tosa Sarah Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Yesterday I went to Sentosa with my friend and it was such a relaxing time of enjoying the breeze, lying on the sand (imported from Indonesia apparently) and having some quality girl time. Sentosa has three main beaches: Tanjong, Palawan and Siloso and as it was a week day, it was less busy compared to the weekends. If you are looking for a quiet getaway, I highly recommend  Tanjong beach as it's the farthest from the hub of things to do on this island, which means it's the quietest and not crowded with tourists-I even fell asleep here. There's also a Universal Studios here, but I would not recommend it unless you have little ones to kill time with as it looks small and not worth the admission price. Also, there's plenty of other activities such as zip lining, water sports, and even luging, so Universal would probably be on the bottom of my list anyways.

I kept asking my friend if so and so was man made at Sentosa because as I learn more about this country, I realize how young it is, thus how technologically advance it is having only been officially established fifty or so years ago as 'Singapore'. There are many intelligent people working in Singapore which sets the standard quite high in terms of living, working, and one's lifestyle. Singapore is also a place of wealthy dwellers, hence the line up of air conditioned malls with top fashion houses of the world and the high cost of living.

For dinner, we went to the highly anticipated (well for me) and touristy Paradise Dynasty to try the eight flavour xiao long baos that are a first of its kind. They were worth the hype and wait since researching for this trip and I couldn't have been more satisfied. I think out of the eight, my favorite was fois gras, black truffle, crab roe, and szechuan, though the original is alway hearty-so basically like half of them (they're each d ifferent and unique!). This eatery is located all across Singapore as they are considered a direct competitor of Ding Tai Fung, one of the most well known dim sum restaurants of the East.

After a full stomach we headed to Clarke Quay, a central tourist zone with diverse grub from around the world, bars, and a river running through where you can take a ferry to do some sightseeing. The view here is really nice of the downtown buildings and you can even spot the Marina Bay Sands hotel from this hotspot.